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Patriotic Chanel

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OK, perhaps these outfits from Chanel’s Spring/Summer 08 RTW collection are not the most practical choices for a barbeque, but they sure are fun to look at, not to mention, in the spirit of things. Anyway, check out the handbag-as-anklet. Could this be a sign that the oversize bags we see today will be shrinking? Or, will fanny packs migrate south? No sure, but I do know that this mini purse frees your hands so you can eat all the corn on the cob your little heart desires. Hmmm … maybe these ensembles are just the thing for Fourth of July picnics after all. Happy Fourth!

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Lagerfeld Lady

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The “Nan Kempner” hat (see below) has put me in an elegant frame of mind and if you’re looking for something classy too, this black silk blend blouse from K Karl Lagerfeld will do very nicely. Feminine with its large ruffle and flowing, sheer overlay, it is conservative and sexy at the same time. I especially like the double keyhole closure at the back. I also appreciate the versatility. You can wear it to work, to dinner, for cocktails as you can see from the photos, it rocks when paired with skinny jeans. But wait, there’s more - it’s also on sale. It is 50% off: down to $215 from $430. It’s not often you can get something good from Kaiser Karl at this price.

Easy, breezy chic

I don’t know about you, but I like a bit of color on my pale limbs in the summer time because well, that vitamin D is very important isn’t it? Also, one always looks so much more toned and slim with tanned limbs. But, you don’t want those same warm rays wrinkling up your face or potentially causing skin cancer (studies show that melanomas are far more dangerous when on the face or scalp). So, as the glare of the sun intensifies, I slather on the sunblock, put on a big pair of shades and, if I’m going to be spending a lot of time outdoors, opt for a good wide-brimmed hat. This white straw hat, fashioned after one of fashion acolyte Nan Kempner’s, is so chic and elegant. Can’t you just picture it fitting righ in in St. Topez? But, the truth is that the hat would be fab no matter where you’re spending the summer. The alluring 10-inch brim and the stand-out white would look great whether you’re holing up in a city, strolling on a beach or cooling off in the country. Better yet, it is on sale. Originally, it was $395 and is now $276. Actually, it’s even less than that because as I mentioned yesterday, Vivre is offering another 20% off their sale items until July 2nd. Just type in VEXTRA20 at checkout and voila, this sublime and functional accessory can be yours for less than a few tubes of the Anthelios sunblock I like so much.

Kotur clutches

These snakesin clutches by Kotur in silver and gold are a great find. You can wear them to formal occasions or to cocktails. You can wear them with anything because the metallics go with everything. Also, they’re at good size. Measuring 9 5/8″ x 4½” x 1¾”, they’re wide and deep enough to fit your lipstick, keys, money and credit cards for the evening, but still small enough to be a feminine clutch. Plus, they are on sale. They were $438, now they are $306. But, they are actually even less because Vivre is discounting all sale items another 20% until July 2nd. Just enter the code VEXTRA20 at checkout. At these prices and considering the basic versatility of these clutches, it’s worth getting both the silver and the gold.

Harper’s sells out

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The July issue of Harper’s Bazaar devotes 40 pages to one of its biggest advertisers - Estee Lauder. And, as the New York Times points out, it’s not 40 ad pages, but 40 editorial pages. The magazine is awarding these pages AND the cover to the four stars of Estee Lauder’s ad campaign for its new perfume, Sensuous. So, Gwyneth Paltrow (who conveniently has a new movie out), Elizabeth Hurley, Carolyn Murphy and Hilary Rhoda share prime real estate in this issue. Usually magazines offer a blurb or perhaps a page or two to one of its advertisers’ product launches, but the coverage here it truly unprecedented.

I hope this is not going to be a trend, although I’m afraid that it will very much be the way things will be done as sought-after advertisers will gain more clout in our faltering economy. I, for one, am pretty sick of everything turning into an ad as it is. I already know that when I see a celebrity on a magazine cover, it’s because she has a new product to hawk whether it’s a movie, perfume or clothing line. For me, there’s no point in buying magazines (and I have subscriptions to half a dozen glossies) if they will be nothing but big advertorials. What do you think?

Boston beckons

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I just got back from a few days in Boston, the dual purpose of the trip being to get out of muggy NYC and to attend a Red Sox game. No, I’m not the sports enthusiast (by any stretch of the imagination) but my husband is a Boston native, so there you have it. He, like the rest of the city, is a die hard fan. I’ve never seen so much Red Sox paraphernalia in my life! It seemed like the city was papered with the logo because by my count, about 50% of the population, babies and all, was wearing a Red Sox product. That franchise must be minting money.

But, as luck would have it, we attended their worst game of the season so far. It was against the St. Louis Cardinals and it was over in the first inning. It was a beautiful summer weekend however, and the sights (and great restaurants too) offered no small consolation. The Public Garden, pictured here is always a delight to meander through. Little bit of trivia: established in 1837 on the site of a salt marsh, the Boston Public Garden is the first botanical garden in the US.

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Did you know …

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… that it is the Romans who gave us the word perfume? Per is Latin for “through” and fumum means “smoke” – the release of scent through burning. The ancient Romans were very inventive in their diffusion techniques, sometimes also sweetening the air by releasing birds with perfumed wings from their cages. The Romans applied perfume as much as three times a day and scented almost everything in sight: draperies, cushions, even pets and horses. Nor were servants excluded from the fragrant fest. They wore musk and marjoram among other aromatics so as not to offend the delicate nostrils of their masters. By 1 AD, Rome was consuming approximately 2,800 tons of imported frankincense and 550 tons of myrrh per year. Half a century later, Emperor Nero spent the equivalent of $100,000 today on the scent for just one feast. His dining room had carved ivory ceilings that were fitted with concealed pipes which sprayed perfumed mists on the guests below. He had sliding panels which when opened, showered guests with fresh rose petals. These clouds of rose petals were so dense that one unfortunate reveler was actually asphyxiated by them.

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The ancient Greeks and Egyptians were no less assiduous than the Romans in their use of scent. After bathing, Egyptians liked to rub fragrant oils into their skin to soften it and to mask body odor. Body odor was also cloaked by small balls of incense placed where limbs meet. At parties, servants sometimes fastened a cone of perfumed grease on the head of each of the guests. As it melted down the face and body of its wearer, the grease not only released a pleasant scent, but also had a cooling effect. Egyptian aromas were potent. Pots filled with spices such as myrrh and frankincense preserved in fat still gave off a faint odor when opened in King Tutankhamen’s tomb more than 3,000 years later. The fact that fragrant unguents were placed in tombs shows the significant role that perfume played in the lives of Egyptians. It was deemed important enough to be brought into the afterlife. Sufficient body oil for daily use was one of the basic supplies issued in the form of wages paid to even the lowliest of workers.

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In ancient Greece, precious oils and perfumes were also universally used. The Greeks liked to use multiple ointments simultaneously, each for a different part of the body. By the 7th century BC, hundreds of perfumers had set up shop in Athens, becoming popular meeting places as they were so often frequented by the city’s inhabitants. Commerce in fragrances became an important part of the economy, actually forming a substantial part of trade around the Mediterranean.

So, what happened in the Middle Ages? Christianity frowned upon bathing, dismissing the importance of good hygiene in general and so, I think it is safe to say that for about 1000 years, body odor was rampant throughout Europe.

Celeb sells

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So Kate Moss is coming out with not her first, but her second fragrance - Velvet Hour. I actually wasn’t aware that she already had a perfume because well, who can keep up with the myriad celebrity perfume launches? I’m pretty sure she’s hoping to repeat a past success here since the fragrance industry can be very lucrative indeed. As a recent New York Times article points out, Nothing Sells Like Celebrity. According to the article, Glow by JLo had global sales of $78 million dollars at its peak. We can thank JLo by the way, for starting the whole celebrity perfume trend. Yay. Glow, like Kate Moss’s perfumes, are released by Coty.

I don’t know about you but personally, I just couldn’t, wouldn’t ever buy a celebrity fragrance or any other celebrity-endorsed product for that matter, even if I liked it. It’s simply a matter of principle. How can I possibly have a JLo or Sarah Jessica Parker perfume sitting on my vanity? I just can’t be THAT gullible and I just can’t fatten the wallets of these people any further. Nope. No way.

Sneakers and socks

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Now, if you’re going to wear sneakers and hopefully, mercifully, you’ll be wearing socks with them (see previous post), the socks must be WHITE. Why? Because socks of another color are just plain ugly. If you’re going to wear socks of a color other than white, they should be covered by long pants. Case in point: the socks of indeterminate greyish hue worn above just do not look good. They bring down the whole outfit which overall, has some merit. The shirt is a nice color and the lengths of the shirt sleeves and the shorts is appropriate. A pair of crisp white socks would have looked much better, much sharper than these dingy looking, greige ones. Hopefully she doesn’t have more colored socks in that Macy’s bag.

Lili Allen does denim

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Summer is in full swing and as much as I love the weather, there’s something I absolutely cannot stand about warm temperatures and that’s the sight of so much flabby flesh coupled with too many unfortunate fashion choices. British pop star Lily Allen is a walking faux pas here and I’m not talking about the fluorescent hair and nails. She’s supposed to be cool, so she shouldn’t look conventional.

Where the conventionality kicks in, unfortunately, is with her all too common fashion mistakes. The choice of clothing only serves to accentuate the negative aspects of her physique. Lily has a sizable belly and heavy legs and is emphasizing these less than ideal proportions by a denim skirt that is worn too low and is cut too short. Second, she’s wearing sneakers which are never flattering to begin with and should only be worn when exercising. In this case, they do nothing to lengthen her short stature. Also, she isn’t wearing any socks. Why? That is just gross. I’ve seen this quite a bit, especially among joggers to my great dismay, and I just don’t get it. All I can think about is sweaty, smelly feet.

Lastly, and I know they are everywhere, are the visible bra straps. I realize they’ve become a staple, but they should never have done so. Why? Because they are unflattering. They are distracting from the top being worn and they look sloppy. Plus, there’s nothing worse than when they’re dirty. If someone is going to let her bra hang out, she should at least launder it. I can’t speak for the cleanliness of Lily’s bra here, but overall, she’s a billboard for fashion dont’s.

Royal Ascot Ladies Day

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Yesterday was Ladies Day at Royal Ascot, the world’s most famous horse race. Steeped in tradition and history, Royal Ascot, held every June, dates back to 1711 and is attended by the English royal family every day. After they arrive in horse drawn carriages, members of the royal family along with their privileged guests, take their seats in the Royal Enclosure, the most sought after pavilion at the races (naturally).

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Ascot is a major event event in the British social calendar and to the dismay of some horse enthusiasts, media attention is focused on the fashion. That’s because everyone, particularly in the Royal Enclosure is dressed to the nines - tens even. The dress code there is strict. Men are required to wear full morning dress including a top hat while women must not bare midriffs or shoulders and must eschew fake tans. (Thank goodness! I’ll take pale skin over orange any day.) Most importantly, they must wear hats.

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The hats have become the chief weapons in the no holds barred battle for attention from the highest ranks of British society which is what Ladies Day has evolved into. I think the pictures demonstrate that the hats have proved to be very effective tools indeed in the grab for the spotlight, especially when there’s no shortage of money or imagination.

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Vivre sale on cuffs

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Two cuffs that I really like and that I wrote about from Vivre are now 20% off. The croco Cavalli cuff was $450 and is now $360, while the cutout cuff by Herve van der Straeten was $280 and is now $224. Plus, through Monday June 23, there’s free shipping on all jewlery orders. I love nothing more than when something I like goes on sale AND it’s still in stock!

Did you know …

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… that travel guides as we know them were first published in the mid-19th century? This is a relatively recent phenomena considering that people, especially young men of means, had been traveling for pleasure for about a hundred years? The continental Grand Tour had become a must for an English gentleman’s cultural and social education in the 18th century. But, by 1832, the Napoleonic Wars had finally come to an end, the steam engine transformed transportation and the industrial revolution gave rise to a large middle class in Europe as well as America. And this middle class now had the means, the time and the inclination to see a bit o’ the world.

As often happens with innovations, the modern guidebook was invented simultaneously by two men of different nationalities. Karl Baedeker published four German-language titles in 1835 while England saw the publication of John Murray’s Hanbook for Travellers just a year later. This was the first time that ojective, impersonal books were published on travel. Up to then, travel guides had been written, but they combined facts with opinions and sentimental observations.

The Baedeker and Murray books became extremely successful and were relied upon by travelers well into the 20th century. Not surprisingly, others capitalized on the industry and it wasn’t long before several British and European publishing houses put out their own travel guide, Thomas Cook - in the travel business to this day - being among them.

These early travel guides, though enormously popular, still catered to the well heeled, the nouveaux riches. It was an enterprising American dry goods merchant turned bookseller named Daniel Appleton who hit upon the idea of creating a more democratic guide - one for the common man and his family. His comprehensive New and Complete United States Guide Book for Travellers was first published in 1850. Appleton guides were frequently updated - sometimes as often as several times a year - and included city plans, maps and advertisements for hotels which catered to families.

The turn of the 20th century saw the publication of the classic Michelin Guides, but again, it was an American travel writer (born in Hungary), Eugene Fodor, who “kept it real” beginning in the 1930s. Fodor realized that guidebooks focused too much on history and not enough on popular culture. The Introduction to his On the Continent, states that: “We have proceeded on the assumption that your thirst for historical knowledge is nothing like your thirst for the beer of Pilsen or the slivovitsa of Belgrade.” Nothing’ like a little slivovitsa.

Fodor’s books were followed by Frommer’s. Arthur Frommer, an attorney in the U.S. Army stationed in Europe during the Korean Warr, capitalized on his experiences abroad by creating, in 1957, a travel guide for American GIs titled Europe on $5 A Day. The book’s popularity inspired him to follow it up with a civilian version. Both authors’ guidebooks served as the springboards for extensive series, eventually covering destinations around the world. Since then, the number of travel guides have proliferated immensely both in print and digitally and today, there’s no dearth of choice. Series such as Let’s Go, Lonely Planet, Insight Guides and Rough Guides among many others, offer information to suit virtually every travel taste, requirement and desire.

Louis Vuitton guiding light

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If you’re planning a trip to Europe this summer, you may want to take a pass on the usual travel guides (Frommer’s, Fodor’s etc.) and opt for the Louis Vuitton City Guide 2008. The editors have just added five cities to their nine-volume boxed set: Bilbao, Luxembourg, Nicosia, Reykjavic, and Turin. Covering 30 European cities in all, the guides highlight little-known attractions as well as the must-see sites. Written by well-known journalists and writers, they provide information on museums, hotels, restaurants, markets and shopping with the seasoned traveler in mind.

Each year, the color of the collection changes to reflect current fashion trends (mais, bien sur!) and this year’s saffron yellow is reminsicent of New York City taxicabs, in homage to what the guides call “the capital of the world.” You may ask yourself why NY is mentioned here as the last time you checked, it was not a European city. Well, that’s because the guides also cover New York in a separate volume. The set would make a great gift not just for the traveler in your life, but for city residents looking for fresh amusements. The European collection is $110 while the New York book is $53.

Orange Crush

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How about this beauty from Nancy Gonzalez? The shape, skin and especially color on this alligator tote are beautiful. This orange is the perfect shade for summer and complements so many other colors: white, blue, gold, etc. Measuring 14¼” x 8½” x 20½”, it is not too big nor too small. I often take more than one pair of shoes with me to work - heels and flats - in addition to all the usual daily stuff so, I like to have a good size handbag because I hate carrying more than one bag. But I like it to look equally appropriate on casual days and on more formal days too. This just the ticket. It fits all the stuff you’d want to schlep around all day, but because of the structure and shape, remains polished-looking. You can wear this structured tote with a suit, dress or jeans. It is not cheap at $4,100, but it is WAY less than most alligator day bags today - which retail from about $15,000 to $35,000. It’s a bag you’ll enjoy summer after summer.

Alice + Olivia has flare

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These flared jeans from Alice + Olivia are not only cool, but so flattering with their slimming high waist. I have a couple of pairs of pants from Alice + Olivia and what I like best about them is their fit. They are cut in a way that make you look taller and leaner. I like high waisted pants and skirts for the same reason.

What I also like about these jeans, aside from their good fit, crisp color and breezy, retro flare (can’t you just picture one of Charlie’s Angels wearing them?), is the criss-cross banding in the front. It’s a small detail, but it adds interest. These are more like denim pants than jeans and so would look great with so many different things from more formal to casual. They would be youthfully elegant whether paired with a feminine blouse, a fitted button-down shirt, a blazer, a T-shirt or tank top. They’re a valuable addition to any summer wardrobe.

YSL timely exhibit

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The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts is currently displaying 145 of Yves Saint Laurent’s best ensembles, in a collaboration with Paris’ Fondation Pierre Berge Yves Saint Laurent and the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco. This presciently timed retrospective, which opened just two days before YSL’s death on June 1st, was inpsired by the fact that YSL had not had an exhibit since 1983 when the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York made him the first living designer to be showcased there.

The exposition takes a comprehensive look at YSL’s design process from his inspirations to his detailed sketches to the meticulous garment construction. It places particular emphasis on Saint Laurent’s wide-ranging idea sources. Inspired by exotic locales like Morocco, Russia and China, art, especially Mondrian, Picasso and Braque, and literature (he and I share a fondness for Oscar Wilde), his worldly and sophisticated sensibilities were reflected in his work. Evident from the display too, is the timelessness of Saint Laurent’s clothes. The green, blue and olive silk dress above was Nan Kempner’s. It was made in 1989, but would have been just as elegant at any point in the last 50 or 60 years. If you find yourself in Montreal, I urge you to go see this show. It runs until September 18.

Did you know …

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… that nail polish was invented by the Chinese about 5,000 years ago? But then again, wasn’t just about everything devised by the Chinese first? I recently discovered for instance, that the Chinese began printing 600 years before Johannes Gutenberg came up with the printing press in Germany. The Chinese also used a magnetic compass at leat 100 years before there was mention of the instrument anywhere else. And the list goes on and on.

But around 3000 B.C., long before the printing press and magnetic compass, the Chinese formulated something perhaps just as important - nail lacquer. The Chinese began coloring their fingernails by using a mixture of beeswax, gelatin and egg whites into which they added crushed flower petals for pigment. The preferred color, then as now, was a reddish/pinkish hue and was spread on long fingernails which were de riguer among the aristocracy because naturally, they symbolized leisure and privilege. That’s a portrait of the Cixi above, the last dowager empress of China, painted around 1900. The long fingernail tradition is kept alive by many Asian men today. Ever notice some cab drivers who sport a very long pinkie nail? Contrary to popular belief, the nail is not used to snort cocaine or to pick one’s nose. Rather, it demonstrates that the wearer does not perform manual labor. Driving a cab, after all, is not a back-breaking (though it may be an ache-inducing) task.

The Egyptians too opted for the reddish tones found in henna not just to color their fingernails, but the tips of their fingers as well. A dark red was the color of choice for the upper classes in Egypt. Both Queen Nefertiti and Queen Cleopatra are said to have used dark reds on their fingers and toes. Women of lesser rank were permitted only paler shades.

In China, nail color denoted social status as well. During the Chou Dynsaty, around 600 B.C., Chinese royalty sported gold and silver nails. Then, according to a 15th century Ming Dynasty manuscript, royal preferences seemd to have shifted back to red and also swung to black. Woe to the non-royals who dared to sport those hues, for execution was the prescribed punishment. I suppose it would be a wee bit of an understatement to conclude that fashion was not yet democratized.

At the beginning of the 19th century, women applied color by rubbing tinted oils into their nails and a century later, turned to tinted powders and creams to do the job. It is the automobile industry with its enameled paints which, at the beginning of the twentieth century, can be credited with the creation of nail polish as we know it as the polishes of today are basically refined versions of car paint.

Dirt Chip

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To my horror, The New York Times has recently decreed that chipped nail polish is in! And if it’s in the paper of record, it has to be true, right? To this, I say NOOOOOOOO! Say it isn’t so! Why, why, why?

The trend is supposed to symbolize a nonchalance about one’s appearance. You can walk around with a $5,000 handbag and a $600 pair of shoes, but the unkempt nails announce to the world that you actually don’t care that much about your appearance, that the whole look is unstudied and effortless and oh so cool. But I ask you, is it cool to have ugly hands? If you have beautiful hands with long, tapering fingers, chipped polish will diminish their appeal. If you have so-so hands with short, stubby fingers, chipped polish will only accentuate those flaws. Besides, the hands will look dirty. Who would want to touch them or be touched by them? Chipped polish, in other words, is just plain gross.

Celebs like the Olsen Twins and Lindsay Lohan, undisputed paragons of good taste (ha, ha), are credited with sparking the trend. I will never for the life of me understand how something can catch on even when it is absolutely, unequivocally HIDEOUS and UNFLATTERING. Why do people always have to jump on the bandwagon? There’s enough ugly stuff out there so please, I beg you, stop the insanity!

In-vest

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Bill Cunningham, the Sunday Styles photographer from the New York Times, just did a piece on vests. I am so glad because vests are one of my favorite items to wear. They sharpen up any outfit and an inexpensive one will do the job beautifully.

Check out the tie back halter vest above left from Hinge. The masculine pinstriping is offset by the sheer femininity of the fitted waist and most of all, the sexy bare back - it has a long, wide ribbon that ties around the neck. The cropped vest from Chulo is unique not just because of its short length, but because of the collar which is made up of two styles: a notched collar on top of a shawl collar. I also like the color. White is always fresh.

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As for my wardrobe, I recently bought the black tuxedo and grey pinstriped vests (above) from H&M in Madrid. The price: 20 euros apiece. That’s only $30. On top of being so inexpensive, they are very versatile. I wear them with ruffled shirts and jeans or with white tees and tank tops. It would be difficult to find a clothing item of better value.

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Last summer, I bought this white vest (above) from Bamford, an English label which I quite like. I don’t remember exactly how much it was, but I think I paid around $250. I like the crispness of the white. It looks great with a black tee and it also looks good with a light colored button-down shirt. I have two masculine-looking shirts with French cuffs - one blue and one violet - that I like to wear with this vest. I also pair it with a black button-down shirt and jeans. Stay away from white pants with this combination though, because it ends up looking a little too “Saturday Night Live.”

In any case, as you can see, you don’t need to shell out hundreds of bucks for a good looking vest. If you don’t already have one, I strongly recommend that you buy one because they look good, are easy to wear and you can get ‘em cheap. To my eye, there’s no difference between an expensive vest and a cheap one. Like Bill Cunningham says, “the cheaper, the better.”