I’m leaving for London and Paris this weekend and plan on taking a break from daily posting as I’m hoping for a little R & R. So, Happy New Year everyone and au revoir!
Contents
-
Categories
-
Archives
-
RSS Feeds
-
Meta
Accessories Abound
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Not everything is doom and gloom in the retail industry. The accessories segment is booming as consumers are purchasing new accessories to add luster to their old outfits. According to a new report by an industry publisher, Packaged Facts, the fashion accessories market is expected to reach $16 billion by the end of this year and to jump 24% to $20 billion by the end of 2012. In the report, fashion accessories are defined as bags, belts, gloves, hats, scarves, ties and handkerchiefs. Handkerchiefs? Really? Maybe they mean men’s pocket squares.
In any case, handbags and neckties will lead the pack. This bullishness is attributed to women’s handbags having become status symbols in the last few years and to “American men’s increasingly sophisticated fashion sense.” Perhaps this is where the handkerchiefs come in.
On that note, I’d like to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas!
Chanel Mobile Art Comes to a Standstill
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Alas, Chanel has announced that it will cancel the remainder of its expensive Mobile Art tour. The pre-fab pod, designed by reknown architect Zaha Hadid (that’s her above with Karl Lagerfeld) and containing installations by 20 contemporary artists celebrating Chanel’s iconic 2.55 quilted bag, was slated to move on to London, Paris and Moscow. The ambitious fashion-meets-art project opened in Hong Kong in March and traveled to Tokyo. But, by the time it came to New York in October, the world-wide economic recession was deepening quickly with no end in sight. A Chanel spokeswoman would not reveal the cost of the project, but said that “Considering the current economic crisis, we decided it was best to stop the project.” We will be concentrating on strategic growth investments.” Wow! Even Kaiser Karl has had to adjust to the new sobriety in the luxury industry.
Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge Art Auction
Monday, December 22, 2008
The extraordinary art collection amassed by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge over their 50-year personal and professional partnership will be auctioned off by Christie’s in Paris on February 23rd and 24th. The treasure trove is chock full of paintings and sculptures by modern masters including Brancusi, Braque, Matisse, Mondrian, Picasso and Warhol. They were fond of 19th century painters such as Goya too. The pair had collected so much art that they had run out of wall space, even displaying precious pieces in the bathrooms. The collection also includes furniture and objets d’art by art deco masters such as Jean-Michel Frank and French sculptors François-Xavier and Claude Lalanne (who first became famous for their wooly sheep which were on display in Bergdorf’s windows last year). That’s YSL above in his living room in 1995 surrounded by a few of his treasures including Fernand Leger’s “The Black Profile” hanging above him and a 1920s Jean Dunand vase to his left.
Many more personal objects such as lions in silver or bronze, still and in motion, that Bergé gave to Yves on his birthdays because Yves was a Leo, are also up for bidding as are cameos, ivory carvings and agate chalices. Berge says he would like to use the $350 million to $450 million (again, that’s $350 - $450 million!!!) estimated take to fund AIDS research and to focus on the AIDS crisis in Africa. Let’s hope he will.
Crinolines for the Modern Woman?
Thursday, December 18, 2008
An exhibit in Paris showcases crinoline dresses from Empress Eugenie’s reign in all their 19th century splendor, complete with all the necessary accoutrements. On display are not only the resplendent gowns, but also their supportive cages, bodices, undergarments (which were made of simple cotton) and even feet-freeing cords. All sorts of sumptuous trinkets such as hand-painted lace fans, silver bouquet holders and muffs in swansdown and peacock feathers are there to be ogled at as well.
The exhibit goes a bit deeper than the display of pretty things though and actually positions the crinoline as an instument of women’s liberation, deeming it to have been a versatile garment (they were worn to the beach!) which helped found a commercial fashion industry along with the more democratic department stores. I never would have thought of these caged follies as being conducive to freedom in any way, but perhaps in their time, they were. In any case, they haven’t disappeared (remember Vivienne Westwood’s gown in Sex and the City?), so possibly, they are still modern.
The exhibit is housed in the Palais Galliera, a luxurious mansion built in 1888 for the Duchess de Galliera, which is open only for exhibits on costume and clothing design. I will certainly have to see all this for myself and luckily, I shall have the oportunity to do so as I will be in Paris the first week of December. “Sous L’Empire des Crinolines, 1852-1870” runs until April 26.
Met Acquires Brooklyn Museum Costumes
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
The Brooklyn Museum has agreed to transfer its vast collection of costumes and accessories to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The move came after three years of negotiation between the two institutions. Considered to be one of the best costume collections in the world, the Brooklyn Museum’s treasures have not been exhibited for more than a decade. The museum simply does not have the resources to maintain and properly display the collection, hence the acquisition by the better-funded Met.
The Brooklyn cache, which was begun in 1903, consists of some 23,500 European and American costumes and accessories from the mid-19th to the mid-20th century. (The hats pictured above, are a part of the collection and date from the 1920s and 1940s.) It is considered a perfect compliment to the Met’s Costume Institute collection which was established in 1946 and comprises mostly of haute couture fashions from the mid-20th century onward. This newly acquired trove probably gives the Met the pre-eminent costume collection in the world. It will retain a bit of a separate identity, though, as it will be known as the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
I think everyone benefits from this transaction, especially the fashion-loving public. I can’t wait to view the Brooklyn Museum’s trove. Both museums plan exhibits in 2010 focusing on different parts of the combined collection.
Dame Designs Dresses
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Readers of this blog know where I stand on the subject of celebrity fashion “designers”. Announcements of A,B,C & D-list designers coming out with their own clothing/perfume/whatever lines make me cringe and roll my eyes in a “Please, spare us!” kind of way. But, one more celebirty has come to the fore on this front and I must say, this time, it sounds good.
Rumors abound that British retailer Marks & Spencer will ask Oscar-winning actress, Dame Helen Mirren, to design a line of dresses for older women. The line would simply be called DWS or Dresses With Sleeves. Dame Helen has long complained about the fact that designers usually make things for young women and leave women of her age (63) out in the cold, so to speak. Thus, there are many sleeveless and backless dresses, but not too many stylish ones which provide appropriate coverage.
Right on! My mother, who is the same age as Dame Helen has long bemoaned this fact. I know that perhaps designing for women of baby boomer age is not considered sexy and glamorous but come on! These women wear clothes, don’t they? Plus, they have more spending power than younger women. So, for the sake of my mother and the millions of women in her age group, not to mention, for the sake of the bottom line, I hope that designers and other retailers will take notice. Anyway, older women are not automatically devoid of sex appeal. Does anyone remember the pictures taken this summer of Dame Helen in a red bikini?
When More Is Truly Too Much
Monday, December 15, 2008
Do you know anyone without any taste whatsoever, but money to burn (or flush) even in These Economic Times? If you do, there are plenty of gifts to choose from (or at least, point them to). Take, for example, this crystal studded toilet from fixtures designer Jemal Wright which can be had for only about $75,000. What more is there to say except that there really must be one born every minute? Can’t wait ’til someone comes up with a diamond-studded one. For additional, er ingenious gift ideas, such as $120,000 bedazzled foosball tables and $400,000 solid gold wine coolers, read here.
Hache Poncho
Friday, December 12, 2008
How about this stylish little number from Hache? This wool poncho has armholes and a zippered front. It has a very chic overall look and it does double duty because it can be worn as outerwear and in a jacket/blazer type way. Plus, it is at a very good price. Originally $795, it is now only $318.
The Fall of Hemlines
Thursday, December 11, 2008
It seems that the stock market and retail sales aren’t the only things falling these days (along with consumer confidence, Wall Street bonuses, etc.) Hemlines are taking a downward plunge too. The topic of hemlines is something I never thought I would discuss. It seems so last century. But, they are a sign of the times. According to economists, hemlines rise in a boom and go down in a bust. (What are economists doing paying attention to hemlines, anyway?) Skirts and dresses are going to calf- and even floor-skimming lengths this winter and into the spring. It’s not about being pessimistic, but rather about showing some modesty in these uncertain economic times. It’s about covering your assets, if you will. Still, all this need not be dour. The longer silhouette is lengthening and therefore, flattering. And, the colors on the runways are cheerful. Check out the dress above from Alberta Ferretti’s Spring 2009 collection. I just hope the whole baby doll thing is now a thing of the past. If this trend is any indication of that, I am even all the more for it, all the while hoping for a quick end to the recession, of course!
Posh’s Passed Off Frocks
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Well, well, well. Quelle surprise! It seems that Victoria Beckham’s dress line which hit Bergdorf Goodman last week, may have had just a wee bit of input from French-born, London-based designer, Roland Mouret. (I own a dress and a skirt by him and I will never, ever, ever part with them. They are constructed so beautifully and instantly make you feel tall and thin.) Mouret’s camp claims that the designer has indeed, been very involved in the creative process with her line, while Posh’s people maintain that Mouret only set her up with his pattern cutters and fabric suppliers in London. Her dresses, though, Like Mouret’s, are tightly constructed with an inner corset, fall below the knee and have a full-length zipper. And, they include “Dear Customer” tags which are almost exactly like the ones found in Mouret’s garments.
Judge for yourself, dear reader. The dress on the left is from Mouret’s Spring 2006 RTW line while the one on the right is from Beckham’s Spring 2009 collection. I know it’s shocking that some celebrities may not actually design their own clothing line, but there you have it.
Luxe Luggage
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Heading out of town for the holidays? After Christmas, I’ll be in going to London and Paris for a couple of weeks and I know I will soon spend long periods of time waiting by luggage carousels, jostling with other impatient travelers. So, I am always envious of people who travel with just a carry on and are able to saunter out of the airport in no time. But try as I might, I just cannot pack everything into a carry on. I just can’t, especially as size guidelines are becoming more restrictive. How can one fit shoes, toiletries AND clothes into something that’s the size of a large handbag? It will always be a mystery to me. But I digress. This post is not about the size of luggage, but rather, about its look.
My luggage is black so it’s not always immediately identifiable it in a sea of black bags at the carousel. I’ve been thinking of going with something a bit more distinctive and it seems that in this regard, I’m part of a growing trend. Samsonite has had a successful run with its Black Label line which it launched in 2005 and for which it has partnered with big fashion names like Alexander McQueen and next spring, Viktor and Rolf.
Luggage companies are not the only ones tapping into travelers’ desire to think of their luggage as a luxury handbag rather than as a suitcase. Fashion house including Gucci, Prada, Bottega Veneta, Fendi and Lanvin (that’s Alber Elbaz’s suitcase for Lanvin pictured above) have jumped on the bandwagon.
There are travelers though, for whom say, an intrecciato weave suitcase from Bottega Veneta, is still not distinctive enough. For added exclusivity, they will head to Louis Vuitton or Hermes, for example, and order a one-of-a kind piece. Luggage brands like Tumi and Samsonite have not been blind to this propensity and have also created their own divisions for custome-made pieces.
For me personally, I trust traditional luggage companies to make suitcases that are sturdy and light. If I buy something from Lanvin, for instance, I would be worried about the amount of abuse that its suitcase could sustain (and we all know a great deal of abuse is doled out by airport luggage handlers). I wouldn’t want my fashionable bag to be marred by scratches, tears, and broken zippers. So I would probably opt for a brand like Tumi or Samsonite. Plus, going for, say a Pucci carry on, is a little too fashion victim for me.
The Mirdle
Monday, December 8, 2008
If you’re looking for a gift for that special man in your life - the one who already has everything - I’ve got the perfect thing. I’ll bet he doesn’t have a Mirdle. That’s right, a girdle for men. First, there was guyliner, then, mantyhose and now, we have man girldes, or “Smanx” as I like to call them. Marketed by Barcelona-based LumbarWear as “compression” garments meant to relieve lower back pain and strengthen muscles, I think we can all read between the lines. The only compression going on here is on the love handles. Not only is this a unique gift, but it comes at a recession-friendly price of $50-$60 depending on whether you’re into boxers or briefs. Available at TaylorGifts. Just when you thought you’ve seen everything …
Imperial Russian Splendor At The V&A
Friday, December 5, 2008
A new exhibit will open on December 10 at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. Magnificence of the Tsars will showcase resplendent garments from the Russian Imperial court. Starting in the 1720s and spanning 200 years, the exhibit will display embroidered coats, coronation uniforms (complete with matching boots!) and other forms of regalia. It will examine the connections between European fashion, military uniforms, court dress and traditional Russian garb, concentrating on “the power and majesty of masculine uniform at its finest.” I will be in London over New Year’s Eve and definitely plan on taking in all of this tsartorial grandeur. The exhibit runs until March 29.
ADAM
Thursday, December 4, 2008
This baby alpaca sleeveless turtleneck by ADAM is a great deal. I love the plum color and the tromple l’oeil necklace. It looks as good as it feels. And, it’s on sale. It was $365 and is now $219. At this price, you can buy this as a gift for yourself and for someone else.
Sonia Rykiel On Display
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
“Sonia Rykiel, Exhibition” has just opened at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. It celebrates 40 years of the designer’s career - one which has produced irreverant, dynamic, easy clothes for the independent woman. The curator of the exhibit even proposes that Rykiel pre-empted the Japanese new wave with her infamous 1976 collection which featured raw hems and inside-out seams. During the show for this collection, models stripped to bare torsos as they turned the sweaters from one side to the other.
On display, amid the designer’s gamine sweaters and floaty dresses, are her sketchbooks and ad campaigns. The visitor will also find the manuscript to one of her books. Sonia Rykiel, unbeknownst to me, has actually authored 12 novels
Hermes On The Block At Christie’s
Monday, December 1, 2008
If you’re in the mood to splurge (despite all the economic forecasts), then I’ve got a sale for you! An auction actually. On December 9th, Christie’s in London is auctioning 23 Hermes bags as part of its Jewels sale.
On offer is a Sac Malette (above) which dates to the 1950s and belonged to Charlie Chaplin’s wife. Another rarity is an Haut a Courroies travel bag in dark red crocodile. First designed by Hermes in 1900, no more than five are made a year. The goods also include a Mini Kelly bag in forest green croc and two large Birkins in black croc. Of course, none of this will come cheap. Estimates start at $925 (for a red lizard Pochette) and quickly escalate to $28,000.
Adrienne Landau Fox Trim Pashmina
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Check out this fur-trimmed pashmina from Adrienne Landau. The fur trim is not only beautiful, but practical on these chilly days. (Here in New York, it has been totally freezing!) And, the silvery paisley print is cool. The whole thing has a luxurious, but hip vibe. It also comes in beige, but in my opinion, this metallic grey is nicer, younger and more versatile. It can go with browns and blacks. The style is versatile too. You can wear it casually or on more formal occasions. And, it’s on sale. It is $449.90 down from $750. This is a great gift for someone (especially for oneself!) which will get a lot of wear over the years and never be outdated. At the sale price, this is a good deal.
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Costume: The Art of Dress
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
A recorded guide called Costume: The Art of Dress, will be available at The Metropolitan Museum of Art starting today. The guide, narrated by Sarah Jessica Parker and organized by the MET’s Costume Institute”, highlights fashion from the museum’s permanent collections, including clothing, sculpture and painting. It focuses on the role fashion has played through the ages in the expression of social status, power, wealth, customs, taste and sex.
“Looking beyond our encyclopedic collection of costume to the Museum’s other treasures puts clothing into a historical context,” said Harold Koda, Curator of The Costume Institute. “Walking through the galleries listening to Sarah Jessica Parker’s narration will bring a sense of discovery and delight to the experience.”
I love fashion history and I am really looking forward to taking this tour. I love that you get to look not only at clothes, but at paintings too where the clothes are not in a vacuum - where they are presented in a certain social, historical or psychological context. I find that so interesting because it shows the many ways in which clothing is costume, really - chosen to project an image and so revealing of its times.
NET-A-PORTER Sale
Monday, November 24, 2008
NET-A-PORTER is starting a big sale today, offering up to 50% off on top designers including Chloé, Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Christian Louboutin, Stella McCartney and many more. One item that caught my eye is this Gryphon Nailhead Admiral coat. This collarless coat is fully lined and has removable military pin badges. What makes the coat, though, is the gold stud trim on the sleeves and hem. Beautiful against the olive color of the coat and the white trim, it is chic and different. And of course, it is on sale. Originally $980, it is now $686.
